Cyprus by bike. Ideas and curiosity

Hi all! Let me introduce you to my last solo trip around Cyprus only by bicycle.

I'm so excited to share this experience with you, yes YOU that are looking for new inspiration for the next trip or maybe YOU that Cyprus is already in your mind and want to know more about travel over there OR YOU that are member of my family or friend whom I stalked to read this article. Welcome!

In this post I'm going to write about:

➢HOW CYPRUS LOOKS LIKE FROM A TWO-WHEELS VIEW
➢HOW TO PLAN THIS KIND OF TRIP
➢GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE TO GO
➢CURIOSITY
➢LOCAL FACTS

..and more from my experience!

For touristic information, this is the door.

Just one more thing: this post contains lots of information that I've selected for you through hyper-textual links so if you want to go deeper just hit on them ! And if you find this reading boring I will understand, just scroll for pictures till something interesting !

Okay we're all set, let's start the ride!

  Play the radio station you prefer, so you can enter 

in the Greek-Cypriot or Turkish-Cypriot mood !

↣ 10 DAYS ↢

↣ WINTER TIME ↢

↣ 500 KM BY BICYCLE ↢

↣ €500 BUDGET ↢

↣ 6 MAIN STOPS ↢

 

Planned stops

Some tour details

⏫ HOW I PLAN THIS TRIP

As you maybe know Cyprus is divided in two parts, South and North, respectively the Greek Cypriot (EU) and the Turkish Cypriot (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus) and they have their own laws and regulations. There are 7 check-points along the "Green Line" where you're allowed to cross. 

In this island there are no trains and bus service isn't that efficient so my first though was to rent a car and visit both sides but after a small research I found out that you need to buy an additional insurance to cross from South to North, and many car rentals don't even allow you to cross. Plus they drive on the left side as crazy!  -check here if you still want to rent a car!-
Too many troubles for me so I decided to keep it easy and rent a bicycle in Larnaka where I've e-mailed from home many bike rentals in town and found out that not so many has km free rental formulas, this means that you're not able to take the bike out of the city. I found one (Sunny Cycles) where you can ask and book the km free bike even from Messenger! But I'm sure there are many others in town if you just go and ask.

Paphos

⏫ DISCOVERING THE ISLAND

Too many abandoned construction sites - reminds me my beloved Italy <3

This island has a great potential with amazing landscapes and spreading nature but isn't that easy to feel it between the many resorts, in-construction sites and high roads. In my opinion the best way for a real experience is the bicycle where you can breath, listen and discover places which you won't discover by car or bus!

 Stone arch

Along the coasts the terrain is mostly flat with the presence of some hills and cliffs depending on the area so isn't that hard to cycle around. If you decide to go more in the heart of the island you will find the Troodos mountains which they require an adequate physic preparation as in some tracks you could find inclination up to 15%, this means very high elevation in short distance.









If you're determinate to go by your own bike (or rent one) I recommend this useful app that helped me so much during my rides: https://www.komoot.com/ you can track from point to point then you can have an overview about time, average speed, surface type, elevation and more. Same as Strava, popular app for cyclists.
Checkout my tours here to have an idea.

Personal experience

It's pretty affordable I'd say, it knows all the cycling routes and direct you there instead of busy roads with the on-board navigation system. Just one note if you have to cross the border check where the check-points are because this navigator could direct you in a no-way-through road!

But in general is more affordable and detailed than Google Maps and include a community that improve the service by reporting nice spots or sharing their tours!

I didn't say anything about the bike type, but an hybrid or mountain bike is recommended as it usually worth to take unpaved tracks and hiking paths to enjoy a breathtaking view or secular black pines in the forest for example. Sandy and rocks tracks along the coasts are common.
On the other hand wide tires are not recommended for long distance asphalt road and too heavy bikes will give you additional efforts especially uphills obviously. But if you are going to rent and don't want to spend more than €10/12 per day a compromise must be found (mine was €6 per day, good deal though).

Keep in mind that the mentioned application can also plan your route based on your bike type.

⏫ NO MAN'S LAND AND MILITARY BASES

The "No Man's Land" and abandoned hotels in background

Baby's flower - Abandoned house near the Green Line

Turkish Cypriot Outpost

UN patrol path

Those pictures describes my first approach "by accident" with the Green Line in an undefined area in Deryneia where the main road suddenly STOP approaching the border. In that area there are "view points" where basically you pay a ticket to go up to the 5th floor into a private building and watch the "No Man's Land" desolation.

From aljazeera.com

Cyprus is an interesting place for different reasons: touristic of course, but also military, commercial and political. In one word Geography. Yes because this island is located halfway between Europe and Middle East and his neighbors are Turkey, Greece, Syria, Lebanon and, far south, Israel. So many countries find Cyprus interesting because of its strategic location! In fact the island is subdivided by 4 territories and I've personally noticed a massive military activity and, I swear, I've visited more military bases than museum during my travel!

There are two main British military bases denominated SBA (Sovereign Base Areas) in Dhekelia and Akrotiri where are located around 3000 troops where basically the British intelligence operates. Smaller outposts are disseminated through the Southern part.
In Dhekelia you're allowed to go through the base by the main road but you can't turn left or right as sides are all fenced and check-points patrolled. Since 1998 a small group of Iraqi and Syrian refugees is living in a place called Richmond Village in the British territory. You can find their incredible story here.

 

More South-West in the Akrotiri peninsula you will find 7 big antennas which I call "The tennis nets" high about 200 meters each. Those huge towers are close to the salt lake and are used as listening posts.
Find out more here

What does it look

What does it look to me

This peninsula in characterized by open fields and suggestive landscape, in the salt lake area the impressive desolation make you feel an astronaut on Mars. On the other side of the main road we find cultivation fields, cows and donkeys and even a bird-watching tower in a cane thicket as the fauna proliferate in that area.
Don't panic if you suddenly hear an unidentified loud roar from nowhere, that's from RAF's jets departing from the nearby military base.

Uomo avvisato ...

Mars landscape

⏫ TROODOS MOUNTAINS
 

Planning the bike tour in Troodos national park

Let's have a quick look to the Troodos area. If you have enough time and energy you definitively have to go. Flora, Fauna, Geology and Nature trails are unique here. Just stop in a village and talk with locals about the mountain, take nature trails and discover his soul.
It took me two days to get from the capital Nicosia to the highest peak in Mount Olympus (1952m), it's about 70km distance but with high inclination in some points so plan your tour very accurate.
My stop-over was Spilia where I stayed for the night and departed the next morning for the second run till the peak. People from the mountain are mainly open so don't hesitate to ask for help, they will open their houses and offer you food in exchange of nice chats if they speaks English, but they generally do.
On the other hand drivers are rude with bikers so watch out and try to keep calm if they honk you without reason.

Road to Troodos

Many fruit trees can be found beside the road

.

Half way - The view

Landscapes changes abruptly

Don't deceive yourself that you'll find a magnificent peak with a breathtaking view of the whole island as the highest point is part of the British SBA (again) and has a huge radar denominated "Golf ball" that stands right there "listening" for military communications in Middle East. 📡
Despite this golf thing the view is pretty good and if weather is nice you're able to see both parts, North and South.

Giant "Golf Ball" - Where is the golf club?

 ⏫ NATURE

If you are passionate about geology and nature here you'll find your perfect habitat. Many scientists and universities comes every year to study the conformation of this area as it has many varieties of rock formation, volcanic for example, that millions of years ago were under the sea level.
The Troodos National Park is equipped with many nature trails, get a map and choose the right for your plans!



➤ Watch out that Troodos is a very touristic area as a ski resort is located near by so prices for accommodations and meals may raise significantly.

 

Lava formation

🚩 Alongside the main roads you can find some "Geo-site" signs that indicate a geologic point of interest right next to the road. Perfect to stop and have a look while recovering!

How the mine site looks today

A few kilometers away we find the Amiantos village located in the proximity of Amiandos mine, the largest asbestos deposit in Europe closed in 1988. It worth to have a visit and understand what has been done to restore that destroyed area thanks to the museum located in the mine site.













⏫ THE DESCEND TO THE SEA

From Troodos to Paphos - one of the many route options

From Troodos to the sea every road is nice to ride as you'll find almost 2000 m downhill with wide turns first surrounded by high mountain vegetation such as black pines and colored rocks, then the countryside landscape begins with low bushes and green hills. I've personally took the road to Paphos passing by many little villages following the "Wine route". More you go down and you start to feel the sea breeze in front of you and the fresh mountain air still on your back. Windmills and orange trees as well as farms till you finally can spot the deep blue sea.

Then finally Paphos, the "British-sized" city European capital of the culture 2017. My stay there was worth only by the Archaeological park  open air by the sea where I was impressed by the beautiful mosaics and more. Entrance is €4 but don't forget your students card, we go for free!

➤ And in general bring your students card in Cyprus as you get lots of discounts everywhere!

Theseus and the Minotaur - Labyrinth

⏫ PAPHOS - LIMASSOL

My favorite one, no doubt.

As you leave the city by the cycle ways you start finding yourself in a pretty calm state road alongside many beaches that soon becomes high cliffs with a stunning view of the coast.

After 25 km you reach the famous Aphrodite's birthplace, 3 or 4 isolated rocks 30mt high that comes out from the sea which you can climb and dive from there, also enjoy the little-stone beach far away from everything but the state road. Even in December if weather is nice you can swim in there. A nice refreshment before resume the ride!

Aphrodite's rock - Mystical place, a revival in the ancient Greek mythology

After many uphills and downhills along the coast the road leave the sea and take the green lowland passing by many little villages where you find many "pit-stop bar" where to have a short break and interact with locals.
Once you arrive in the Akrotiri peninsula two options are available: Go directly to Limassol by the state road or take a diversion to the salt lake area which I've already described above and, trust me, it really worth the ride!
Turn right at Episkopi village, the road start descending and suddenly you find yourself in open fields with the quoted cows, donkeys and bird-watching towers.
Just don't try to go through the Akrotiri military base as you'll find yourself at the checkpoint where a British police officer takes your generalities just because you look like some journalist or something. There is a secondary road on the left that takes you to the Lady's Mile beach where along the road a little surprise full of CATS will wait for you !

😺Just to let you know, Cyprus is FULL of our lovely felines, when you walk on streets, in museums and religious sites, cafés and restaurants and even at the beach; so if you're allergic or you simply hate them I recommend to find a different destination! But if you love them, that's your place.

Lady's Mile beach - The salt lake

Dancing flamingo!

Okay, I had to do that. Seeing flamingos searching for food in the salt lake is an experience that must be shared!
The next day I came back with my new friend from Saudi Arabia, but no luck to find any that day...

... so I wish you lots of flamingos!







⏫ NICOSIA OR LEFKOşA
 

Wall postcard from Lefkosa

Didn't say anything about the capital Nicosia or Lefkoşa in Turkish. As you maybe already know the "Green Line" cuts the capital in two parts, again the South and the North with the respective check-points. 
Now I'm going to write shortly about the North aka Lefkoşa, the "Turkish side" which is more exotic for we Europeans.
There is so much to say but I'll tell you only few personal considerations.

➢First of all just don't be scared at the first impact with the North side, take the time to interact with people and eat some baklava, drink ayran or whatever.
Especially if you come from the outskirts of the Northern capital, the feeling could not be one of the best.
The day I arrived in the capital I was riding all the way in the North side starting from Famagusta and the first thing I saw even before entering in the district was this:

Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus flag - Locals says it can be viewed from the space

A huge flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus dominates on this land. Still wondering how they made it, someone said they painted stones but guys, that's a massive job!

Celebration? - Picture found in a vintage shop

 ➤If you have the chance, wait for the night and look at the flag, a surprise wait for you!

I leave you the comments, just think how this land has been taken and how now is claimed even if this state is recognized only by Turkey .

 ➤But is Northern Cyprus in EU?
 Not really. Even locals have difficulties to describe their relation with European Union. Take some time to go deeper.


 Now let's go back to the first impressions, always (I'd say) reveals to be the wrongest.

 After this astonishing view I headed to the city center looking for a quiet secondary road where to ride in peace. I found myself in a desolated periphery (which was good) surrounded by abandoned sites and free dogs barking and chasing me while riding, which was less good. In the moment I was trying to shake off the dogs an old man driving an old Toyota pick-up tried to knock me down purposely and so I realized not to be welcome there. I was so tired and scared at the same time that I rushed to the first check-point and crossed the border immediately to my "mother Europe". 
To think it know it seems unreasonable to be that worried, but you know better than me that mental health could be tested so hard in this situations!

THIS picture remained in my mind till the evening, until I crossed back to North and met my Couchsurfing host, an authentic funny & friendly Turkish-Cypriot local who made me forget THAT first impression.

Unify Cyprus movement graffiti

Next to the mosque

The old market

Road interrupted by the "Green Line" in the city center - Over the fuel barrels is possible to see the abandoned houses in the buffer zone

This Hotel served as a headquarter during the Turkish occupation in 1974

Visiting those places you will definitely wonder about many things.
I suggest to be prepared to answer yourself knowing what happened there and what is still happening between communities and politics.
Here some links:

➣Turkish invasion of Cyprus 1974
➣Cyprus dispute
➣2018 vote
➣ Home for Cooperation










 ➤ There is no need to say, but food is important as well as money and this side offers delicious recipes and desserts. Prices are much lower than the Southern side!

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